Treatment and Prevention of Saltwater Ich
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Photo by: Charles Haynes
One of the biggest battles I’ve had with my saltwater aquarium has been with saltwater ich. About 6 weeks ago or so I brought home a yellow tang that within a few days contracted Ich and infected my other fish as well. Two Percula clowns, a Sailfin tang, a Dragonet, and the yellow tang all died a few days later.
What is Saltwater Ich?
Saltwater Ich, more correctly named Cryptocaryon irritansis, is a highly contagious parasitic infestation. The lifecyle of Ich consists of 3 stages. Cysts reside at the bottom of the tank and are always present in any aquarium. The cyst performs cell divisions and creates hundreds of new cells called tomites. The cysts rupture at varying intervals and the tomites go out into the tank water in search of new hosts. Once an infectable host is found, the tomite burrows into the host body and grows into a mature parasite called a trophozoite. Trophozoites form postulates in the skin in order to feed. These postulates are seen as salt like granules on the fishes body. These postules then rupture and the trophozoites fall to the bottom of the tank and form cysts starting the process all over again.
Fish seldom die from the parasitic infection itself, but due to secondary infections. More advanced (and rare) cases can cause death when the parasite attaches itself to the fishes gills, causing interference in the oxygen exchange process and death.
Symptoms of Saltwater Ich
The most visible symptom is the salt granule like white spots on the body and fins of the fish. Other symptoms include the fish rubbing on rocks, corals and other tank decorations, loss of appetite, abnormal swimming behavior, and labored breathing.
Causes of Saltwater Ich
The saltwater Ich parasite is present is all saltwater aquariums, but seldom causes a problem as healthy fish in proper water conditions are naturally immune and able to avoid infection. Fish become infected when stressed due to transport, other disease, or poor water conditions. Poor water conditions include: excess nutrients, nitrates, fluctuating pH, ammonia, low dissolved oxygen content. All of these lower the fishes immune systems making them more prone to an outbreak.
Ich commonly occurs in my tank when I introduce new fish from the local fish store. This is most likely due to the combination of the fish not being in the best health at the store and due to the stress introduced through transit and placing the fish in a new tank. As a result, a small infection of Ich is quit common with new fish, and if just left alone will generally go away untreated as long as the fish is healthy, your other fish are healthy, they are all eating, and your tank has good water conditions. I have noticed that yellow tangs tend to be more prone to Ich than other fish I’ve had.
Increasing your tank temperature to 80-81 degrees rapidly increases the parasite’s cycle and helps the fish fight it off. Average reef temperature in nature is about 80-81 degrees, so I keep my tank at this temperature anyway.
Treatment
If the infection becomes heavy or begins to impact multiple fish, you will need to treat the tank and the fish. The best way to do this is highly debated and also depends on the type of tank you have: reef or fish only. In any case, if your temperature isn’t 80-82 degrees, go ahead and gradually raise it.
For reef tanks, you should be very careful with medications used, as many are harmful to your invertebrates. Only products that are clearly marked reef safe should be used. Also follow the directions EXACTLY as described. I’ve used Ich Attack with success in the past and would recommend it.
For fish-only tanks, a copper based product is usually the best form of treatment. Again, you need to clearly follow the instructions and perform water changes as recommended, as too much copper can and will kill your fish.
In tanks where high salinity isn’t a requirement, lowering the specific gravity to 1.0009 - 1.010 for a couple of weeks will kill off the Ich. This is not an option for most though, as their fish cannot tolerate specific gravities this low.
Prevention
The best way to deal with saltwater Ich is to prevention. Prevention is done through maintaining good water conditions, feeding food with garlic (or feed garlic straight up), buying from a reputable local fish store, and freshwater dipping or quarantining new fish before placing them in the main tank.
Is Ich a common occurrence in your tank? What treatment and prevention methods have you been successful with?







February 27th, 2008 at 6:44 am
[...] wrote an article on my blog about saltwater Ich. Pulled together all of the great info from various folks here on 3Reef. Maybe it will help. [...]
February 27th, 2008 at 6:53 am
Good info solid honest info good job..
February 27th, 2008 at 12:40 pm
Thanks Tangster!
February 27th, 2008 at 1:40 pm
I had a friend at college who was a big fish collector and I remember when he had to treat his tank for this because he was worried about it.
Horrible ending to the story, actually, someone walked into his unlocked on-campus apt while he was in the shower and poured bleach into the water. I don’t even know why. I just remember he didn’t calm down for weeks.
On a happier note, your new blog is really lovely!
February 28th, 2008 at 3:22 am
@Mrs. Micah - BLEACH??? How cruel. I’d be pretty upset too. Thanks for the comment, and glad you like the new blog
March 2nd, 2008 at 11:03 am
I think it’s inaccurate to say that ‘the saltwater Ich parasite is present in all saltwater aquariums’. That statement is straightforward and outright false. If you don’t introduce the parasite, it will never be present in your aquarium.
Factors such as poor water condition can stress the fish into being affected by ich, but the parasite had surely been present previous to you noticing any infection. Ich doesn’t spontaneously appear.
March 2nd, 2008 at 2:23 pm
Hi willie, thanks for the comment. I based my information on discussions I have in various reefing forums from folks that I consider “experts”. This would include long term reefers and a few marine biologists, all stated the parasite is present in all tanks.
If you have factual information contradicting what I’ve written I’d be very interested in reading it.
April 22nd, 2008 at 1:31 pm
@willie. Every tank has ich or some other parasite in it. unless you dip your fish in a bleach/formaldehyde solution, i doubt your fish isnt carrying parasites. People start tanks with all base rock/sand and add a fish, guess what? Algae still grows, even though there was no visible algae on any “parts/livestock” of the tank, the spores remained inactive until the time was right and a source of food appears. Same applies for parasite cysts. They are on/in your fish, rock, sand, and filters, waiting for a stressed fish to lower its immunity and allow the parasites to attack it.
April 30th, 2008 at 2:33 am
Well, you’ve got some good info in this article and, as Willie stated, some not entirely accurate info. I don’t know who your “experts” are who are claiming it’s some sort of omnipotent parasite, but it’s obviously not the ones I know and trust…like Bob Fenner, Stephen Pro, etc… Ich is caused by a parasite as we know, but it can definitely be killed and/or blocked from entering your tank. Albeit, it is a VERY prevalent parasite. The big issue is that people don’t quarantine rocks, corals, fish, etc…and treat infected fish properly, before introducing them to their display tank. That’s why this parasite seems to be in every tank. Quarantine much, anyone? No they don’t!
Second big point is: Raising the tank temp on a saltwater tank does virtually nothing to the parasite’s life cycle…unlike freshwater ich. Unless of course, you want to go above 90+ degrees! Honestly, you’re just stressing your fish for the most part if you raise it too high above normal…making them more vulnerable to parasite and disease outbreaks. 78-80 is just about perfect, and I realize you were saying 80-81, but let’s make that point clear.
Third: Hyposalinity for two weeks will not be sufficient to break the parasite’s life cycle in the display or quarantined treated fish. Six weeks is more like it, or even longer…eight weeks perhaps, is ideal. Most of what I’ve read on hyposalinity is a mixed bag of results, with many individuals reporting high failure rates and frustration on recurrance of the parasite (I’m referring to treating the fish; not fallowing the display with hypo, mind you). Reefcentral.com has a huge, multi-year thread on this very subject with real world examples. Quite honestly, I’d use Cupramine to treat my fish in a quarantine for two weeks. If the fish are extremely copper sensitive like mandarins, etc…I’d do the “transfer method” to eradicate the parasite (see link below).
As for references to some great, accurate info, this is about as good as it gets:
http://www.reefland.com/forum/marine-fish-care-health-disease-treatment/20321-marine-ich-myths-facts.html
Another great source is http://www.wetwebmedia.com which is Bob Fenner’s site.
Using Google queries will yield some amazing information from either of the above sites and a few others.
Best regards,
Jack
April 30th, 2008 at 2:47 am
Hi Jack, thanks for the information and for sharing your perspective. My experts are folks I have come to respect and trust from 3reef.com. I pulled all of the information based on suggestions I received from them along with my own experience treating and dealing with it.
I realize opinions vary on the topic, but to state that my information is wrong is inaccurate. It may be different from your experience and what you’ve read, but it is factual.
I do agree using google queries will yield some amazing info…just be careful, as the info varies and your mileage may vary.
Take care, and a sincere thanks for visiting and for commenting.